The first fruit of the season on my tomato plants
I’ve been part of a trend that I didn’t quite realize I was following until considerably later in the process. The trend? the move to whole grains.
When I moved nine years ago, I grabbed the opportunity to create a new habit. I tend to find the time of a large change the perfect atmosphere to make small changes that I stick to, so I decided that I would begin regularly making my own bread. I had already been baking some, just not consistently. But at the time of the move, I was comfortable enough with it that I decided to try the change to consistently making my own. One step at a time, you now. So I did. I think one loaf of bread was bought while my parents were visiting to help me with the move, but then I was on my own, learning a new job, living (ironically) right behind a grocery store, and buying only flour, never bread.
It pretty much worked. I simply stuck to my guns by telling myself — if you don’t want it badly enough to make it, then you don’t want it badly enough. I think that in the nine years since I’ve moved, I may have bought one loaf of sandwich bread since that first one my Mom bought, but I’m not even sure of that. I do know that the only time store-bought sandwich bread has been in this house has been when she was here. (She brings her own, sometimes. But she likes my bread; after all, she gave me a Kitchen Aid for my birthday after a few years of this. Before that, I was kneading it all by hand.)
Now, this didn’t mean that I never bought any bread at all; for example, I still haven’t learned to make bagels, so if I want them, I buy them. But eventually…
Anyway, as I grew more and more comfortable with this process, to the point that I memorized the recipe, I began to contemplate whole wheat bread. Now, it wasn’t that I hadn’t had the idea of whole wheat from the beginning — one of the bread books I read at the time of my move, and in a way it inspired me to make the change — was Bread Alone. But those recipes were almost too difficult in a way; or at least, that’s how I thought of them. I hadn’t yet made the transition to the proper ingredients or the proper mindset. The mindset that said, I can do it, I just have to find them. And really, the practice of making bread for a while was a good thing before I started to tackle the differences in wheat. Whole wheat flour acts a little differently than white flour.
So, I started slowly. First, I found good flour (King Arthur is my favorite still, although I mostly don’t buy flour from them any more, explain why in a minute). And I started making my rolls and sandwich bread recipes with a blend of wheat and white. Eventually I reached a point where I had about a 50:50 ratio. And it was good.
But then came a bit of a sea change in my thinking. I had been intending all along to move toward more whole grains in my diet for reasons of health, but I hadn’t really intended to do a complete change to whole grains. But somewhere around that time, I discovered a trend through the internet; many people were teaching, for reasons both religious and secular, that, as a society, we really needed to move away from white flour to whole wheat, from processed foods to fresh, local foods, from a convenience culture to one that gathered, preserved, and cooked one’s own food directly and mindfully, as much as possible. So I was suddenly contemplating not just a move toward cooking with whole wheat flour, but an entirely different mindset in my approach to food.
It didn’t happen all at once. In fact, I’d say this has happened over the course of the entire nine years I’ve lived here, and I’m not finished yet. It was more of a step by step process: incorporating more and different vegetables into my diet, eventually getting into the habit of going to the farmer’s market regularly, trying out a CSA farm subscription for vegetables and eggs, disciplining myself not to buy out-of-season fruits and vegetables at the grocery store on a regular basis but more as a treat, getting local meat sources, and dairy sources, too (I’m still working on that one, though I have found local sources), figuring out what I wanted locally and what was a lost cause (I’m not giving up my coffee and spices), and finally, buying a grain mill so I can grind my own extremely fresh flour. (I had to think about that one for a while; it is a commitment, you know.)
Interestingly, one of my biggest difficulties was finding recipe books. In some ways, it still is. I want good recipes that work toward good taste with regular ingredients, but are committed to using only whole wheat flour. Even the King Arthur Flour Whole Wheat Bread recipe book, which I have and have used enthusiastically, did not make that commitment. They used blends of white and wheat when what I wanted was whole wheat only. Or those wonderful vegetarian cookbooks — required me to buy foods that weren’t available locally, unless I was willing to buy something that was trucked across the continent. Or the preservation cookbooks — required me to use ingredients that I was trying to use less of, like sugar (for example, jam recipes — I just recently discovered one that didn’t require me to use pectin!). But I’m stubborn, and so I keep looking, and experimenting, and eventually finding what I need.
Just last summer, I actually had a weird moment as a result of all these slow changes. I do have some white flour still sitting in my pantry, waiting for me to use it up, and last summer I had a time shortage and a need for some bread. So I made myself a white flour sandwich loaf because I didn’t have time to grind my grain. Never again! It was, well, it didn’t taste bad, it just didn’t taste. I felt like I was eating air more than food, and I missed the flavor of the whole wheat. (It made me weirdly uncomfortable.) Once the little bit of white flour is gone from my pantry, I don’t think I’ll be buying anymore again.
Now what changes remain? Well, I need to learn more about food preservation. There are plenty more things to can so I don’t have to buy as much in the winter. I’d like to figure out a way to buy a lot of local onions, for example, and preserve them in my storage room so I can have some all winter long, when the farmer’s market doesn’t have them any more. Same with garlic. A root cellar would be nice, but not really a functional solution yet. And I really need to tackle a vegetable garden, so it can fill in some of the gaps of what I buy elsewhere.
But, you know, one step at a time…
Excuse me, I need to go pay my CSA farm bill for the year…
This week I’ve been having an interesting experience with the clear proof that local food is best.
Monday I fixed a dish for my work lunches that week, as is my habit, and so I tossed together a quick hamburger tomato sauce, rather like spaghetti sauce except without the spaghetti, that had ground beef, canned tomatoes, onions, green peppers, and lovely spices and herbs. And it has been good! I’ve been trying to figure out what makes it so lovely, and I finally decided it’s a combination of two things.
- I used cinnamon for the first time, and
- the canned tomatoes were canned by me last summer.
Why did these make a difference? Well, the cinnamon is something I had read about before, and finally decided to try it, and it is definitely good. Upon reflection, I may have used a bit too much for the pound of hamburger — I used about one teaspoon — but I’m not really complaining too much. I will definitely be experimenting with cinnamon again in a meat dish. But the big difference is the tomatoes. When I fixed them for canning, I cooked them down a bit with some generic Italian spices, which added considerable to their richness and sweetness. That depth of flavor was greatly enhanced by the spices in this meat sauce this time around, but it would not have been as good if the canned local tomatoes hadn’t been there in the first place.
At least I don’t think so. Clearly I will have to experiment a bit with the rest of my canning to confirm this conclusion — such a hardship!
slicing the tomatoes for canning
September 23, 2007 at 5:27 pm (local food)
I did continue to cook locally, as I’ve said, and this is a recipe that reoccurs from last year. A potato gratin, mixed in with squash and onions and garlic, all local, with cheese on top, still local. What isn’t local is the salt and pepper and cream. (Here it is before going in the oven for some 30-45 minutes at 350 degrees.
It’s remarkably easy to cook, plus it’s very adaptable to whatever roastable vegetables you have on hand.
I wonder if I could do it with a blend of mascarpone and local milk in place of cream? I’ll have to try that on a small dish.
September 22, 2007 at 11:46 pm (local food)
One of my favorite and most persistent meals is things with pesto. The local part — I make my own as much as possible, but only during the summer when the basil is growing like crazy. I’ve been taking advantage of the CSA subscription, because he regularly has all you can eat basil each week as soon as it is growing enough. I make large batches and freeze quite a bit. It’s never quite as good, simply because the garlic loses its bite once it has been frozen. But that okay, it’s still good, just not as good.
The basil and garlic are local; unfortunately the other ingredients can’t be local, since I know of no source for salt, pine nuts, olive oil, or Parmesan cheese within local reach. But there’s always a trade-off when you are making a regional recipe. It’s local to them, but not for us. But I love it so much, that I accept it.
I don’t just eat it on pasta, obviously. Here it is on toast with tomatoes, and some extra Parmesan sprinkled on top.
September 19, 2007 at 1:28 pm (local food)
Although I have been extremely silent through the majority of One Local Summer, I thought I’d make up for some of my absence (lots of travel) by telling people about what I did do. Because, you see, even though I didn’t tell everyone about it, local food was on my mind as much as possible. And here you have one of my experiences with snacks.
In fact, with something this filling, sometimes a snack was a meal.
Here you have the lovely local apple and the creamy local cheese, both found at the farmer’s market. I really like putting a slice of apple and a slice of cheese together. It’s especially good with creamy cheese and tart apple, which means that summer apples aren’t the best for this snacks; it will reach its apex of taste in the fall, when the Staymans and Granny Smiths and such come into season. But even an average apple tastes better with a little bit of cheese.
July 14, 2007 at 9:39 pm (local food)
This time I was trying to use things up because I’m about to go on a business trip, so I wasn’t able to use wholly local ingredients, but all things considered, I think I did pretty well.
I took the tomato and tomatillo from the CSA, garlic and onion from the farmer’s market, then added in mushrooms from the grocery store (I believe they were from a neighboring state, so at least partially local, and sauteed them in the skillet where I had cooked the beef (very local! bought at the farmer’s market). The couscous is the main thing for which I don’t have any idea of a source.
Using the beef drippings really added to the flavor, so I used minimal salt and oil. It turned out well and fed me for at least four meals. I was rather pleased with it.
July 7, 2007 at 12:41 am (local food)
I was beginning to wonder if I would have a recipe to offer; I had been eating the same stuff as last week, but that was at least partly being lazy.
However, this evening I was inspired: I picked up fresh-picked basil and parsley, and tomatillos at my CSA subscription. The tomato was the second half of what I had eaten for my breakfast. And I had yummy thoughts of a really fresh, very lightly cooked pasta. So I chopped up the basil, parsley, tomatillos, and tomato, then shoved them in the oven to warm up in some olive oil; meanwhile I cooked the pasta. Once that came out, I took out the lightly warmed ingredients, then added a bit more olive oil, salt, and parmesan. It tasted lovely, fresh and powerful herbs balanced against the background of the pasta, with a bit of salt and parmesan to enhance those flavors.
June 27, 2007 at 2:18 am (local food)
In conjunction with this lunch, I also had a beautiful buffalo steak and roasted cauliflower. The buffalo came from Cibola Farms, which sells at my local farmers markets, and the cauliflower came from a market vendor and my CSA farm subscription (it wasn’t quite enough, so I had to get more at the market). All I did with the cauliflower was mix it with some olive oil, pepper, salt, and a little red wine vinegar, then roasted it for approximately 30 minutes or so, ’til it was soft and caramelized. Yum!
Next week, yogurt?